6. List of symbols

  • \(A\) : the Dean parameter (Dean 1991)

  • \(A,B,C,D\) : the calibration parameters that depend on the energy dissipation and the reflection process (Bernabeu, 1999)

  • \(a,b\) : the parameters that satisfy the energy equilibrium function (Yates et al., 2009)

  • \(a',b'\) : the empirical parameters that satisfy the linear relationship (Jaramillo et al., 2021a)

  • \(b,c^±\) : the free parameters where \(c^+\) indicates the accretion and \(c^-\) indicates the erosion, respectively (Davidson et al., 2013)

  • \(C^±\) : the free parameters where \(C^+\) indicates the accretion and \(C^-\) indicates the erosion, respectively (Yates et al., 2009)

  • \(C_i\) : the calibration parameters that depend on the wave obliquity (\(β\)) based on measured shapes of the model beaches (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(D\) : the total window width of the weighted average (Davidson et al., 2013)

  • \(g\) : the acceleration due to gravity

  • \(H_b\) : the breaking wave height

  • \(h\) : the water depth from the mean sea level

  • \(h^*\) : the closure depth

  • \(h_{Berm}\) : the berm height

  • \(E\) : the incoming breaking wave energy related to the breaking wave height

  • \(E_{eq}\) : the equilibrium wave energy corresponding to the current shoreline position

  • \(F_r\) : the energy flux per unit required to move sediments

  • \(K\) : the transport coefficient which is related to sediment characteristics such as sediment density \(ρ_s\), water density \(ρ_w\), gravity acceleration \(g\), sediment porosity a and dimensionless proportionality coefficient \(k\)

  • \(k\) : the calibration parameter for the rate at which the shoreline approaches equilibrium (Miller and Dean, 2004)

  • \(k_r,a_r\) : the beach recovery and response factors (Lim et al., 2022)

  • \(L_s\) : the scaling wavelength calculated by the peak wave period and the wave depth at the diffraction point (González and Medina, 2001)

  • \(L^±\) : the proportional constants where \(L^+\) indicates the clockwise shoreline rotation and \(L^-\) indicates the counterclockwise rotation, respectively (Jaramillo et al., 2021a)

  • \(l\) : the beach length

  • \(P\) : the incoming wave power related to the significant wave height \(H_s\) and the wave peak period \(T_p\)

  • \(Q\) : the longshore sediment transport

  • \(q\) : the sinks and sources along the coast

  • \(R\) : the radius measured from the tip of the headland breakwater (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(R_o\) : the length of the control line joining the updrift diffraction point to the down-coast control point (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(R_∞\) : the equilibrium shoreline response (Turki et al., 2013)

  • \(R(t)\) : the instantaneous position at time \(t\)

  • \(S\) : the change in local water level (Turki et al., 2013)

  • \(S(t)\) : the shoreline position at time \(t\)

  • \(S_{eq}\) : the equilibrium shoreline position

  • \(t\) : the time variable

  • \(v_{lt}\) : the linear trend term according to the sediment gain/loss on the littoral zone (Jaramillo et al., 2020)

  • \(W^*\) : the width of the active surf zone

  • \(x\) : the cross-shore distance from the shoreline

  • \(x_0\) : the cross-shore distance between the beginning of the surf profile and the virtual origin of the shoaling profile over the mean sea level

  • \(Y\) : the distance from the control point to the straight alignment down-coast (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(y\) : the seaward distance

  • \(α_{s,eq}\) : the asymptotical equilibrium shoreline orientation

  • \(α_s(t)\) : the shoreline orientation at time \(t\)

  • \(β\) : the angle between the initial shoreline position and the wave crest (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(β_r\) : the angular parameter with a calculated value of 2.13 obtained by comparing 26 Spanish beaches (González and Medina, 2001)

  • \(ρ\) : the density of water

  • \(γ_b\) : the breaker index

  • \(Ω\) : the time-varying dimensionless fall velocity (\(Ω=H/w_sT\))

  • \(Ω_{eq}\) : the weighted averageof the antecedent dimensionless fall velocity

  • \(μ\) : the free parameter for the effect of wave setup (Lim et al., 2022)

  • \(ω\) : the ratio of beach change which is proportional to the characteristic time scale \(T_s\) (Turki et al., 2013)

  • \(ϕ\) : the memory decay of the system (Davidson et al., 2013)

  • \(θ\) : the incident wave direction

  • \(θ\) : the angle between the location of \(R\) on the shoreline (Hsu and Evans, 1989)

  • \(θ_b\): the wave angle at breaking [ \(°\) ]


Fig. 0